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The 4Cs of Diamonds

Every certified diamond is graded on four characteristics: cut, colour, clarity and carat. They're printed on every GIA and IGI report we provide. Here's what each one means, and how to balance them.

Cut — the one that matters most

How cut depth affects light: a shallow diamond leaks light from the bottom, a well-cut diamond returns it through the top, a deep diamond loses it through the sides.TOO SHALLOWLight leaks out the bottomWELL CUTLight returns to the eyeTOO DEEPLight escapes through the sides
Proportions decide where light leaves the stone.

Cut is how well a diamond's facets are angled and proportioned. It decides how much light comes back to your eye as brilliance (white light), fire (flashes of colour) and scintillation (sparkle as it moves).

  • Grades for round diamonds run Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, Poor (GIA) — IGI uses Ideal and Excellent at the top.
  • A well-cut diamond looks brighter and often larger than a poorly cut one of the same weight.
  • Polish and symmetry, also on the report, describe finishing quality. Very Good or better is ideal.

Our adviceNever compromise on cut. Choose Excellent or Ideal for round diamonds.

Colour

Colour grades shown on the same stone, from icy white to warm yellow.

Colour grading measures the absence of colour in white diamonds, on a scale from D (colourless) to Z (light yellow or brown).

  • D–F

    DescriptionColourless

    Looks likeIcy white, even side by side with others

  • G–H

    DescriptionNear colourless

    Looks likeWhite to the eye once set

  • I–J

    DescriptionNear colourless

    Looks likeSlight warmth, mainly visible from the side

  • K–M

    DescriptionFaint colour

    Looks likeVisible warmth

Our adviceG–H is the sweet spot in white gold. In yellow or rose gold, the metal warms the stone anyway, so I–J can look just as good for less.

Clarity

What a 10× loupe reveals at each clarity grade.

Almost every diamond has tiny internal features (inclusions) or surface marks (blemishes). Clarity grades how visible they are under 10× magnification.

  • FL / IF

    MeaningFlawless / Internally flawless

  • VVS1 / VVS2

    MeaningVery, very slightly included — extremely hard to see even at 10×

  • VS1 / VS2

    MeaningVery slightly included — minor, usually invisible to the eye

  • SI1 / SI2

    MeaningSlightly included — sometimes visible to the naked eye

  • I1–I3

    MeaningIncluded — visible to the eye

Our adviceYou want an "eye-clean" diamond — no inclusions visible from normal viewing distance. VS2 and many SI1 stones are eye-clean. Step shapes (emerald, Asscher) show more, so choose VS2 or higher for those.

Carat

Typical face-up diameters of round brilliants, to relative scale.

Carat is weight, not size: 1 carat = 0.2 grams. Two diamonds of the same carat can look different in size depending on cut and shape. Elongated shapes like oval, pear and marquise look larger than a round of the same weight.

Prices jump at "magic" weights — 0.50, 0.75, 1.00, 1.50, 2.00 ct. A 0.95 ct diamond looks the same as a 1.00 ct but can cost noticeably less.

Try our Diamond Size Visualizer to see sizes on a hand.

How to balance the 4Cs

  1. Cut first — Excellent or Ideal.
  2. Then carat — the size you want, just under a magic weight if you can.
  3. Then colour — G–H in white metal, I–J in yellow or rose.
  4. Then clarity — eye-clean is enough; VS2–SI1 gives the best value.

Beyond the 4Cs: certification

The 4Cs only mean something if an independent lab graded them. Every Candor diamond comes with a GIA or IGI report you can verify online.

Have a question about a diamond? Our gemologists answer on WhatsApp.