Two families of shapes
Brilliant cuts (round, oval, cushion, pear, princess, radiant, marquise, heart) have many triangular facets for maximum sparkle. Step cuts (emerald, Asscher) have long, parallel facets for a calm "hall of mirrors" look and show clarity more.
The ten shapes
Round
Maximum brilliance; the classic
- Looks
- Standard
- Watch for
- Cut grade — choose Excellent/Ideal
- Best ratio
- 1.00–1.01
Round
Maximum brilliance; the classic
- Looks
- Standard
- Watch for
- Cut grade — choose Excellent/Ideal
- Best ratio
- 1.00–1.01
Oval
Brilliant sparkle, elongates the finger
- Looks
- Larger than round
- Watch for
- "Bow-tie" dark band across the centre — view video/photos
- Best ratio
- 1.30–1.50
Cushion
Soft square/rectangle, rounded corners, romantic
- Looks
- Slightly smaller face-up
- Watch for
- Wide range of looks; ask for photos
- Best ratio
- 1.00–1.10 (square)
Pear
Teardrop; worn point toward the nail
- Looks
- Larger than round
- Watch for
- Bow-tie; symmetry of the shoulders
- Best ratio
- 1.45–1.75
Princess
Square with sharp corners, very bright
- Looks
- Similar to round
- Watch for
- Protect corners with V-prongs
- Best ratio
- 1.00–1.05
Radiant
Rectangle/square with trimmed corners, brilliant faceting
- Looks
- Larger than round
- Watch for
- Depth — deep stones look small
- Best ratio
- 1.00–1.05 or 1.20–1.35
Marquise
Long, pointed both ends, vintage
- Looks
- Largest face-up for weight
- Watch for
- Bow-tie; protect both points
- Best ratio
- 1.75–2.25
Emerald
Step cut, long rectangle, elegant
- Looks
- Larger than round
- Watch for
- Clarity shows — choose VS2+
- Best ratio
- 1.30–1.50
Asscher
Square step cut, art deco
- Looks
- Similar to round
- Watch for
- Clarity shows — choose VS2+
- Best ratio
- 1.00–1.05
Heart
Romantic, needs skilled cutting
- Looks
- Similar to round
- Watch for
- Symmetry of the two lobes; best above 0.50 ct
- Best ratio
- 0.90–1.10
Which shape looks biggest?
Marquise, oval, pear and emerald have the largest surface area per carat. Round and Asscher carry more weight in depth.
Matching shape to hand
Long shapes (oval, pear, marquise, emerald) lengthen shorter fingers. Wide shapes (cushion, round, Asscher) balance longer fingers. On a small hand, a round or oval keeps proportions elegant.